A spider seems to walk on the clouds at the Emeralda Marsh Conservation Area in Leesburg, FL. Photo by Bob Deakin

Once deep in the Florida country in August, it’s a battle of conditioning versus nature. Armed with just a bottle of water and a cell phone, six-mile runs seem longer if there is no real scenery or adventure to enjoy, and such was the case with the Emeralda Marsh Conservation Area in Leesburg, Florida, this past week.

No slight on the Emeralda Marsh – millions of years of evolution were not intended for the entertainment of a runner on a Friday afternoon – but it was quite the effort to get through the trails on this property maintaining sanity and direction. Path after tree-lined path looked the same and with a heat index of 105 degrees, humidity at 90 percent and bugs circling, just waiting for the bug repellent (Off) to be sweated off, it became even more of a mental, as well as physical, test of endurance.

There are numerous entrances to the Emeralda Marsh but only three are marked, regardless of what maps of the area may show. The “Interpretive Drive” entrance on the southern end of Emeralda Island Road is one, another one is a mile or so further north on the same road as well as the boat launch on C.R. 452, which, unless on a boat, goes no further than the parking lot. With some preparation, one can find the alternative entrances (look for the metal gates) but be weary of maps provided online or in the park. They are very general and do not always correlate to markers or directions as indicated.

Get the picture? This is not an area to experiment with direction and assume that a circuitous path will end up back at the trail head. There are no facilities, maps, water, people or anything once out on these trails on most days, and the areas with parking lots are not near the most scenic spots, which are along the Yale-Griffin Canal.

All that said, the paths – a combination of hard-packed sand, worn grass or crushed sea shells and fill – make for a good running surface. With nearly ten miles of trail there is no shortage of distance if one knows the way around, and in the cooler months this is a setting for spectacular scenery. In summer, the oncoming storms contain their own evil beauty, just make sure there is shelter to be found nearby as it’s likely a long run back to the car.

The Emeralda Marsh Conservation Area encompasses more than 7,000 acres and includes a 4.3-mile Wildlife Drive through the wetland marsh and filtration system, which was created in 1994 to improve the water quality in Lake Griffin. The Wildlife Drive is open to four-wheel drive vehicles on weekends during the spring. A map of the area can be downloaded from the Lake County Web site, and more information is available from the St. Johns River Water Management District.

This has been a summer in search of new places to run, particularly off-road and way off the beaten path within an hour drive of the greater Orlando area. In that respect it has been a successful summer. Virtually unspoiled central Florida marsh is a sight to behold in many ways. There is a stunning presence of exotic birds, mammals and reptiles, depending on the time of year, and a wide variety of classic Florida creatures on foot, depending on the time of day. Go early or go late, watch out for the approaching storms, and go for a run along the Yale-Griffin Canal to see the best of the Emeralda Marsh Conservation Area.

Emeralda Marsh Conservation Area Slide Show

Copyright 2010

A spider puts the finishing touches on a trap at the East Lake Jesup Tract in Oviedo, FL. Photo by Bob Deakin

A spider puts the finishing touches on a trap at the East Lake Jesup Tract in Oviedo, FL. Photo by Bob Deakin

(Part II of II in the Lake Jesup Conservation Area Series)

The East Lake Jesup Tract of the Lake Jesup Conservation Area in Seminole County is a lonely place to run. The location is remote as compared to Orlando but only ten minutes from the intersection of 426 and 419 in Oviedo, which is only ten minutes from Red Bug Lake Road in Casselberry. The parking area is next to the AquaFiber Technologies facility and across from an orange grove at the end of Elm Street, which provides the quintessential rural fruit grove setting of Central Florida past, surrounded by nothing but citrus trees and wetlands.

The St. Johns River Water Management District (SJR), which manages the tract, has temporarily closed the trail although it is still passable, and no warning signs alert visitors of the closing. It is not a pretty location, per se, but it does contain hidden beauty. The trail is daring for off-road runners like few others in that one better keep running or be overtaken by the wildlife and vegetation. This is no gentle warning to be wary of mosquitoes, as much more serious threats exist here including horse flies, spiders, ticks, snakes and thick, jagged brush. The area is not currently maintained, hence the closing of the trail.

No signs point to the conservation area entrance and only occasional, faint white spots on trees mark the trail. A map or GPS is essential to maintain location, as it is not readily apparent that the trail is leading anywhere, and in fact, it is not. The main attraction is the observation tower at the midway point of the 1.4-mile circular trail, which provides a far distant view of Lake Jesup – so far that it doesn’t look like a lake but a marsh.

The sturdy tower is about 20 feet-high and the victim of graffiti, which makes one wonder why someone went through the trouble of lugging cans of paint through the brush only to swash illegible names along handrails and inside the observation deck. It almost appears as though someone was living in the upper deck of the tower judging by squelched fire pits and cut trees surrounding it.

The walk through the forest to get to the tower is beautiful, completely shrouded from the sun by moss-covered oaks, and the walk across the foot bridge immediately before it displays wildlife bolting from the area, frightened from the passing visitors, including deer, gator, otter and large birds. This is the only stretch of the trail currently of any interest other than the observation tower and the remnants of old campgrounds near the parking area.

The trail is overgrown to the point that it is not advisable to run or even hike this area, even if wearing proper clothing. The ticks are so numerous that it is downright dangerous. Unless in an all-terrain vehicle, stay away until the area is cleared and open to the public.

The 6,000 acres of preserved land surrounding Lake Jesup are managed by the SJR and owned by it and local municipalities. The properties were acquired for conservation purposes, and as part of the Central Florida Beltway Project beginning in 1990.

The East Lake Jesup Tract, as with all off-road trails profiled in this column, is worth visiting for its environmental value, and because the folks at the SJR have protected it and made it available to the public, whether for running, hiking or horseback riding. On any given visit, one might see something never seen before. To get in a good run while doing so is icing on the cake.

According to an SJR representative, the trail is closed because there is not yet proper supervision of the property in place, therefore putting visitors’ safety into question. It is a short trail loop and not much of a challenge to runners, however, running in an exotic locale and learning a bit more about the area is often worth the time spent to find it. Such is the case with the East Lake Jesup Tract, but the time to find it is not now. Check back with the SJR and fit it into the schedule at a better time, preferably in winter or early spring.

East Lake Jesup Slide Show

Copyright 2010

Flowers along the Marl Bed Slough at the Lake Jesup Conservation Area in Sanford, FL. Photo by Bob Deakin

Flowers along the Marl Bed Slough at the Lake Jesup Conservation Area in Sanford, FL. Photo by Bob Deakin

(Part I of II in the Lake Jesup Conservation Area Series)

For off-road runners, the Lake Jesup trails offer a step into Seminole County marsh and a glimpse into inscrutable Florida swamp. These short journeys offer a more of a challenge to character and curiosity than to legs and lungs. It’s an opportunity to see the unfamiliar up close, but to be weary of getting too close to the unfamiliar, including the terrain and its inhabitants.

The Lake Jesup Conservation Area in Sanford and Oviedo consists of three separate trails, including two on the west side of the lake and the East Lake Jesup Tract. For runners, each area has a hard enough packed sand trail to get in a couple miles, but only without a significant amount of recent rain. Forget it if there has been, whether in sneakers, hiking boots or waders. These are narrow trails (approximately 6 feet) framed in thick brush at the entrances but spanning out to completely open areas after the first few hundred yards.

The Marl Bed Flats Tract holds one of the unique visions of Florida landscape available in Seminole County. Thick, dark woods with very creepy old oaks line the trails leading to the marsh of the Marl Bed Slough on the edge of Lake Jesup. A foot-wide horse path leads to the edge of the lake, across tall grass and through several areas of pure mud, but dry enough in late-May to navigate on foot. There are acres and acres of land to run across, with a line of palms leading to S.R. 417 toward Orlando visible far off in the distance.

The entrance at the parking area of the Marl Bed Flats tract is about as uninviting as possible. It is in an unlikely spot at the end of Oakway Lane, the vegetation overgrown, the area unattractive and it gets worse the first couple hundred yards until the Red Trail (to the left) opens into the marsh area. The Yellow Trail (to the right) is a short circular path to the Red Trail. The Red and Yellow combine to cover 1.3 miles but that does not include the endless acreage of the marsh leading to the lake, which is the main attraction here. Both trails are short, circular links back to the parking lot.

The Lake Jesup Trail Guide mentions designated camping sites in each of the tracts but to imagine a camp out there during hot weather months is inconceivable. If the bugs didn’t chase everyone into their tents in short order much of the wildlife would see to it. This area is crawling with snakes, alligators, giant tortoises, hawks and plenty of other critters, not to mention the heat, vegetation and the danger of torrential downpours. Hunting is also permitted in certain areas throughout the year.

Animal and plant life are protected at the Lake Jesup Conservation Area and the Trail Guide advises to not “kill, trap or molest any mammal, bird, reptile or amphibian,” which of course is vital to the success of the project. Most of the animals on the property seem acutely aware of this and take matters into their own hands. They are willing to chase intruders off of the property, particularly one rambunctious water moccasin and a pair of large egrets, whose screeches were enough to keep anyone at bay.

The best running area of the three is the North Cameron Tract as it has mostly open trail the whole way with good footing, is least likely to flood and has a simple, circular route near the parking area measuring 1.2 miles. The gate at the southern end is usually locked but it’s an easy climb-over to continue on the trail. It’s a long way to the water – through high grass – from this tract, with cattle in the distance, and not a terribly scenic area, but easy to walk or run.

Speaking of continuing on the trails, each of these tracts are poorly-marked, if at all. It is necessary to bring a map, printable at this link, to know the way around. The North Cameron Tract has a small kiosk with maps, the other two do not – and it is difficult to even see where those trails begin. Keep in mind too that most road maps to these areas do not indicate that the Orlando Sanford International Airport cuts Cameron Ave. in half and that one must take Lake Mary Blvd. around it to get to both tracts from S.R. 46. GPS devices do not realize this either.

The approximately 6,000 acres of preserved land surrounding Lake Jesup is managed by the St. Johns River Water Management District and owned by the District and local municipalities. The properties were acquired for conservation purposes and as part of the Central Florida Beltway Project beginning in 1990.

Lake Jessup Conservation Area Slide Show

Copyright 2010

The Cross Seminole Trail cuts through Central Winds Park in Winter Springs, FL. Photo by Bob Deakin

The Cross Seminole Trail cuts through Central Winds Park in Winter Springs, FL. Photo by Bob Deakin

The Cross Seminole Trail links Orange County to Seminole County, Winter Park to Sanford, as part of the Seminole County Trails & Greenways master plan connecting parks, schools, protected land and neighborhoods within Seminole County and beyond. This is a predominantly urban trail, fraught with intersections and traffic to the south, ebbing into a peaceful, continuous trail in Oviedo and Winter Springs, and back to congested, urban areas to the north in Lake Mary.

The Cross Seminole Trail is not yet completed as planned, with wide-paved trails, signs and facilities, but just short. The links still missing on the trail are from Lake Mary High School in Lake Mary to Ronald Reagan Blvd. in Longwood, a short stretch near the intersection of State Roads 419 and 434 in Winter Springs, and a link in the area of Aloma Ave. and Mitchell-Hammock Rd. in Oviedo. Although trail construction in these areas is not complete because of property rights issues, the entire length from Winter Park to Sanford is easily passable on wheels or foot.

From the south, the Cross Seminole Trail begins at the end of the Cady Way Trail at the intersection of Aloma Ave., Howell Branch and Hall Roads in Winter Park, and runs northeast toward Oviedo High School.

To run or bike the trail from Winter Park to Oviedo is a test of patience as well as endurance. There are busy intersections to navigate, countless business and residential entrances to cross, and the missing link of trail where it is necessary to ride in the road or run on the sidewalk. It is a congested area, and with the exception of a peaceful rural stretch underneath S.R. 417, not particularly enjoyable because of the constant interference.

Oviedo to Longwood is a pleasure. The wide, paved path runs continuously with numerous areas to take a break in the shade, and placid suburban scenery along the way. It crosses back under S.R. 417 with a conveniently-located stop at the Black Hammock Trail Head, and eventually crosses S.R. 434 on a pedestrian overpass, past Winter Springs High School and into Central Winds Park, which provides an ideal stop or meeting place with restroom facilities, water, shade, picnic benches and parking.

From there, the trail heads north along S.R. 434 where the wide-paved path ends for a short stretch before resuming and heading north parallel to S.R. 419 to the Spring Hammock Preserve, which includes the Seminole County Environmental Studies Center and the Osprey Trail, directly across the street from Soldiers Creek Park. This is another respite for parking, hiking the nature trails and getting out of the sun. The trail then crosses S.R. 419 and ends up near the intersection of S.R. 17/92 where it crosses a modern, winding pedestrian bridge offering stunning views of the road below and the forest to the west. Big Tree Park is just a mile or so heading north, home of “The Senator,” a 3,500 year-old bald cypress. The park includes restroom facilities, water, picnic areas, parking, playgrounds and a rustic wooden foot bridge to The Senator with accompanying signs and educational information.

Continuing northwest the trail ends at the intersection of Longwood Lake Mary Rd. and Ronald Reagan Blvd., where it becomes the Rinehart Road/Crossings Trail, the current name until the entire stretch becomes known as the Cross Seminole Trail. The Rinehart Road/Crossings Trail is one of the missing links within the chain of contiguous Seminole County Trails & Greenways from Sanford through Lake Mary. It connects to the Seminole Wekiva Trail in Heathrow via the pedestrian suspension bridge over I-4 covering approximately seven miles.

The Seminole County Trails & Greenways Program works in concert with the Florida Department of Environmental Protection’s Recreation and Parks, as well as the St. Johns River Water Management District’s Recreation and Land management plans to preserve and protect land throughout Florida and provide recreation and enjoyment for its residents.

All in all, the Cross Seminole Trail from Winter Park to Big Tree Park covers approximately 24 miles and provides an excellent opportunity for bicyclists looking to get to know their surrounding towns in a more intimate way, particularly those looking to visit nature trails. The trail is typically populated, even on weekdays, and never far from a main road. Regardless of a few missing links, one can travel from Winter Park to Sanford in a surprisingly short amount of time, and see a lot of their neighbors on the trail along the way.

Copyright 2010

The White Loop trail winds around the bend at the Hal Scott Regional Preserve and Park in Orange County, FL. Photo by Bob Deakin

The White Loop trail winds around the bend at the Hal Scott Regional Preserve and Park in Orange County, FL. Photo by Bob Deakin

An off-road distance runner’s dream, the Hal Scott Regional Preserve and Park is as rural a setting as imaginable just outside the Orlando city limits, yet as far away as possible, environmentally speaking. There are no phones, restroom facilities or drinking water on the property, just lots of trees, grass, wet prairie, ponds and canals.

Three separate trails ring the park, each laid out in rough circles, joined in the center near the park entrance. There is a 6.3-mile yellow loop, a 6.1-mile red loop and a 4.3-mile white loop, each approximately 15 feet wide and covered with worn grass or hard-packed sand. Considering the distances, it is ideal for a distance runner looking to break away from the confines of city streets and pounding concrete, or a mountain biker looking for an easy ride in the middle of nowhere. As long as the trails are, they cover a mere fraction of the 9,515 acres of park property along the Econlockhatchee River.

The park has several designated camping areas, which are open year-round and popular with school groups and equestrian clubs, as motorized vehicles and hunting are not permitted. The camping areas are little more than clearings alongside the trail, but for a group with plans to ride, hike or explore, the park is expansive and holds a variety of landscapes. Wildlife includes bobcat, gopher tortoise, river otter and indigo snake, and the area has protected zones for endangered species including the red-cockaded woodpecker.

Serenity defines the Hal Scott Regional Preserve and Park. Even the drive to get there is quiet once outside Orlando. It is not a place to travel alone for most, as safety in numbers is advisable. A few minutes into a run or ride and one is in the middle of deep Florida bush, with only the birds flying overhead having any view of civilization. The only other sign of human interference along the trails is an occasional opening through the forest revealing a glimpse of smoke trails from the nearby Stanton Energy Center, which is quite a stark contrast of images on a clear day.

The St. Johns River Water Management District’s Division of Land Management is the primary owner and overseer of the property, in cooperation with Orange County. The Hal Scott Regional Park and Preserve was originally purchased in separate parcels from private landowners from 1992 to 1998 with assistance from the Florida Department of Transportation, Orange County and the Orlando-Orange County Expressway Authority. The park is named in honor of the late Hal Scott, former president of the Florida Audubon Society (now Audubon of Florida) from 1971 through 1980, a partner in the former Herndon, Iles & Scott insurance agency in Orlando and a long-time advocate of the preservation of land along the Econlockhatchee River.

The park is located at 5150 Dallas Boulevard in east Orange County outside Orlando city limits and at least a half-hour drive from downtown. It is located south of Bithlo approximately ten miles southwest of East Colonial Drive (S.R.50) and five miles north of the Beachline Expressway (S.R.528). According to the St. Johns River Water Management District, the park will eventually contain restroom facilities and connect with Long Branch Park to the north.

As running or biking areas in Central Florida go, Hal Scott is not among the most spectacular – such
as Hontoon Island State Park or the Lake Norris Conservation Area – but beautiful nonetheless, more so for those interested in plants and wildlife, which is, of course, the purpose of the preserve. There is little shade to be had and barely any waterfront areas to sit and relax or take in the sights. Many of the trail areas are also not passable in wet weather, and once off the trail it’s bushwhacking through the wilderness.

These are trails for strong runners or novice mountain bikers. In respect to the natural setting, lack of facilities and spotty Cell phone coverage, bring lots of water, sun block, and alert someone before using the trails, particularly in extreme heat.

Copyright 2010

A long view of Lake Norris Road and clouds in Eustis, Florida

A long view of clouds over Lake Norris Rd. in Eustis, FL. Photo by Bob Deakin

For those looking for a long, straight and sunny run or ride, free of traffic, intersections or the need for trail directions, Lake Norris Road in Eustis, Florida is just the thing.

Located off State Road (SR) 44A near the Black Bear Golf Club, Lake Norris Rd. is approximately four miles long in the most rural section of Eustis that was formerly an orange grove, and still is at the north end.

Serenity and quiet dominate this landscape that is dotted with homes for the first mile then spreads out into untouched farmland, swampland and forest, leading to Lake Norris, a virtually pristine body of water inaccessible to the general public, except for those who live on the lake or are willing to make a mile-long trek on foot to get to it.

Public parking is available at the Lake Norris Conservation Area, about two thirds of the way down Lake Norris Rd. It is a grass-covered lot, used mostly by horse-toting pickup trucks and equestrians parking for their ride through miles of the conservation area. The public is welcome to use the horse trails on foot or on hooved creatures, and the area is a peaceful respite after a long run or bike ride. Take a look at the wildlife in the adjacent Blackwater Creek, hike it to Lake Norris or just sit back and watch the birds, planes and ultra lite crafts fly overhead on a warm sunny day.

Lake Norris Rd. is two lanes with a 45 mph speed limit, a couple sharp curves and long straight stretches with little more than black cows, cactus and wide open stretches of grass. At the north end, a well-tended orange grove offers fragrant blossoms in the spring and the ultimate Florida scent of oranges in winter. Traffic is light, mostly commuters heading to and from Ebersole Road at the north end, but unobtrusive, and those on the road can see them coming for nearly a mile at most points.

With all of the finely manicured trails and parks available in the greater Orlando area, a rural location such as this is a welcome change to those looking to put in some miles without interruption. The long-distance cyclist can simply use this area as a launching pad for a 100-mile ride if that’s what they’re into. Just head left or right at the intersection of Lake Norris and 44A and pick a route for the day. SR 44A – just off SR 44 – is no cakewalk as cars and tractor trailers travel at speeds well over 65 mph on winding roads, but expert cyclists are used to such risks, and the long-stretches of road are seemingly endless in this part of the state.

The Lake Norris Conservation Area is also a hub of other activities including canoe tours, kayaking, equestrian trails, hiking and bird watching. For maps and details, go to the St. John’s River Water Management District Web site.

Lake Norris Rd. also offers plenty of accessory areas for meandering bike tours, such as the development around Black Bear Golf Club, or Ebersole Rd. and its tributaries, which is a circular section of peaceful rural roadway. There are no traffic lights for miles around, no noise and no industry, and simply doubling back from the original starting point will facilitate as many miles as one wants to go – in peace and quiet. Just bring plenty of water and sunblock.

Originally published on Examiner.com Orlando in 2010

Copyright 2010

Cedar-lined shorline of Lake Norris in Eustis, FL

Cypress-lined shorline of Lake Norris in Eustis, FL

Way off the beaten path of the greater Orlando area, about ten miles from I-4, is the Lake Norris Conservation Area (LNCA) on Lake Norris Road in Eustis. The public park is essentially a horse trail that passes by Lake Norris amidst a 2,352-acre natural preserve in the middle of nowhere. There are no restrooms, paved paths, mileage markers, lights or buildings. Instead, there are lots of cows, trees, open fields and gorgeous lakes.

The LNCA is owned by the St. Johns River Water Management District, which oversees it in cooperation with the Lake County Water Authority. It was purchased from private and commercial entities in three separate transactions from 1996 through 2002 and the most recent purchase, a former sand mine in the far western section, is currently undergoing reclamation to restore the land to its natural state.

It features the Blackwater Creek, which flows under Lake Norris Road on its way to Lake Norris. The creek is home to a host of wildlife including river otters, alligators, turtles and snakes and the entire area is a virtual safari of rare birds, coyote, deer and bear. It is not for the faint of heart as far as hikers are concerned as there is only one way in and one way out, with miles and miles of terrain that can easily lead a careless visitor into a circular abyss.

The entrance way is a grass-covered drive a couple hundred yards long leading to a singular kiosk with a map and sign-in sheet to welcome visitors. A private driveway leads into the preserve, which has a private home and farm off to one side, but other than that its travel via horse or foot. No unauthorized motor vehicles are allowed and the area is cordoned off by cattle fencing with gates for visitors to pass through with friendly reminders to close them once through to keep the big black cows from escaping.

A scout camp is situated next to the entrance to Lake Norris, visible only by a few stored canoes and a rain shelter for the campsite. The entrance to the lake is stunning, with hundreds of centuries-old cypress trees and knees poking out of the pristine waters. A few remnants of a long-eroded dock remain as the only sign of human intrusion.

According to locals, Lake Norris is filled with some of the best freshwater fishing in Central Florida, as well as hundreds of sturdy gators to protect them. In many dozens of visits this reporter has yet to see a boat on the water or any sign of a recent camp out, let alone any litter, bait canisters, beer bottles or vandalism.

A hike to the far west of the park is an arduous one on foot as the terrain is soft white sand for much of the trek, the only respite being long stretches of grass that cows and horses have yet to grind into sand. The atmosphere is as quiet as can be, interrupted only by the sounds of birds and animals scampering across the leaves and the occasional moo.

As stated earlier, this is a potentially treacherous venture considering the presence of snakes, coyotes and bear as well as sweltering heat during much of the year. If an injury were to occur, it’s a long walk back to the entrance and cell phone coverage is intermittent. There is no fast way back to base other than in a four-wheel drive vehicle or on a horse. Mountain biking would be nearly impossible for a long stretch as the sand is too soft and deep, the result of years of hoofed creatures making their way through and the hot sun burning away anything green.

For the strong runner, this can be an exciting and challenging course. With plenty of hops and skips, it is possible to complete many miles through the park, giving for the occasional stop to clear the sand out of the shoes. A mile run through here takes the effort of two on pavement. It is ideal for a spirited hike with appropriate footwear, with an endless amount of scenery to sooth the senses. For those knowledgeable of nature and wildlife, even better, as evidence of all sorts of animals, evolution and botanical history are present throughout.

Patricia Burgos, Environmental Program Manager for the LCWA, notes that the area is ideal for canoeists. The launch area is in Blackwater Creek a few yards away from the kiosk at the entrance to the LNCA.

“That is one area that I highly recommend,” she said. “It’s a great way to see river otter, osprey and other exotic wildlife and it’s an ideal location for the first-time paddler.”

Just let someone know where and when a visit to the park will be made, sign in, bring plenty of water and keep the eyes and ears open at all times. And thank the Lake County Water Authority and the St. Johns River Water Management District.

LNCA Trail Map

Originally published on Examiner.com Orlando in 2010

Copyright 2010